RSGOLD-RUNESCAPEGOLD

The British Hotel (267 St Ursula St, tel 224730) overlooks Grand Harbour, has en-suite bathrooms, and costs LM16 for B&B. The fairly basic Grand Harbour Hotel (47 Battery St, 246003), at LM17 for B&B, offers more fabulous views. Those in need of power showers should head for the Phoenicia, a fine colonial building in Floriana, only marginally spoiled by recent additions to the top floor B&B here costs LM70 and upwards.Take a hike.. round a Unesco World Heritage Site. Despite Italy and Germany's attempts to obliterate it during the Second World War, Valletta remains a city so stunning it would silence you were it not for the robustly comical details of the shop doorways. Valletta, the capital city built in the 1560s by the Knights of St John, sticks out between the two natural harbours, Marsamxett and Grand Harbour, on the north east.

Not only will Byron's "cursed streets of steps" blow you away but because all the ancient, brightly-coloured buses work circular routes beginning and ending just outside the city gates, public transport is easy. The ancient capital of Mdina is just off the centre, perched on a hill on the island's best vantage point.Check inHead for Valletta. The visit must include a Saturday night.Get your bearingsThe island is like a wedge of cheese, sloping steeply from south to north; sandy beaches (and tourist development) are confined to the north and west coasts, amazing views and archaeological wonders to the south and east Malta is roughly 17 miles by eight. Gozo, a greener and dinkier island, lies off the north-west tip, with the tiny and inescapably dull Comino sandwiched between them. Why go now? Malta boasts 6,500 years of culture crammed into a tiny space. Few countries afford the luxury of visiting a Neolithic temple, a Baroque cathedral and an ancient fort and still having time for a dip before cocktails. Malta is always cheap but with Sterling currently at roughly 0.63 Maltese Lira to the pound, it's currently a steal. Beam downAir Malta (0181-785 3177) flies from Heathrow at 10.45am and 7.20pm, and at 11.30am from Gatwick daily.

At the moment, its best offer is pounds 209 (including taxes). British Airways (0345 222111) flies daily from Gatwick and also offers a return fare of pounds 209 (with taxes). Then head for a skateboard park, where you can try out specially designed circuits from about pounds 2 an hour."You need to have a certain kind of mindset to perform tricks. You have to work some things out yourself, and think your way around problems, because someone can only teach you so much."Just don't ask your local policeman!Alister MorganPlayStation 1998 Skate Tour: PlayStation Skatepark, Acklam Road, London W10 (0181-969 4669) tomorrow 12noon-8pm, pounds 4FIVE PLACES TO TRY SKATEBOARDINGPlayStation SkateparkAcklam Road, Ladbroke Grove, London W10 (0181-969 4669)Daily 12noon-4pm, 5pm-9pmBones SkateparkCanal Street, Stockport (0161-480 8118) Mon-Fri 12noon-9pm, Sat & Sun 9am-9pmRampworks1-3 Leckwith Road, Netherton, Liverpool (0151-530 1500) Daily 12noon-4pm, then 2hr sessions till 10pmMount HawkeTruro, Cornwall (01209 890705) Daily 10.15am-9.30pmThe Storm CentreColombo Street, Derby (01332 201768) 10am-10pm daily except Wed, 10am-8pm. Beginners are advised to buy the best equipment they can afford (a decent deck, with trucks and wheels, costs from pounds 80); cheaper stuff will just break."It's best to buy a skateboard and find out whether you like it before deciding which kind of boarding you want to do," advises Hellicar. They showed me around the city, took me to their house, fed me and now they're good friends."The PlayStation circuit boasts obstacles for transition skating: a purpose- built street course (including mini-ramps and rails) in addition to a "vert" competition, where competitors defy gravity and common sense, performing exotically named tricks in the half-pipe.It's one of the best spectator sports around, and will have you running down to your nearest skate shop. I've been around the world, and it doesn't matter where you are; if you walk past another skater, you say, `hello'."I went to Paris and ended up skating with a load of guys, complete strangers.